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Complete Home Rehab In 10 Days
by: Dan Auito
This report is about taking a house and restoring it to an
aesthetically pleasing dwelling that has reclaimed it’s functional
utility. In effect, it is the anti-aging medication for bricks and
mortar.
This report assumes that you have already or will soon acquire
the proper house. The one that is in essence, ripe for rehab. Be
selective and sure of the house’s potential to allow for a profit
after all the hard work is done. I will help you find your house or
houses.
In the proverbial nutshell, it helps if you choose a house from
the start that has a sound plumbing, heating and electrical system.
- Plumbing
- Heating
- Electrical
These are things that are expensive to correct in relation to the
value they return to you upon resale. Most often, people cannot see
the inner workings of these systems and they take them for granted.
Very few buyers are going to give you an extra $15,000-$20,000 in
your asking price because you have replaced things that they can’t
see and already take for granted as just a basic component that is
buried in the structure. Also, they assume these components to be
warranted against defects by you.
After all, it is mandatory in most, if not all states that you
fill out a disclosure form that tells the buyer of every defect that
exists or ever has to your knowledge. So inspect the systems of your
investment alternatives carefully, as they can be expensive to
repair and replace, with minimum dollar return value being realized
at the sale.
Along these same lines, you should also pay close attention to
the following cash vacuums:
- Roof
- Foundation
- Structural Integrity
Here are a few ways to quickly gage a home from its appearance:
Stand across the street from it. Now look at the bones of the
structure. Does it look like a sway-backed horse, with the roof
sagging in the middle? Does it have flat areas in its design that
don’t allow water to be drained away quickly?
Water, dampness and rot are the equivalent of cancer to the human
body when it concerns a structure. Shingles can be replaced. That
won’t necessarily stop me from buying. Usually I will use that old
roof as a bargaining chip in negotiating the seller down to a lower
price. However, if I crawl into the attic and see that the plywood
has become rotted and truss members are also affected, it’s time to
move on to my next potential deal. Life is too short and I will
never rehab it in 10 days if I have to rip the roof off and rebuild
it too.
Some other conditions, such as sagging eves, wavy roof surface,
rotten fascia and trim pieces, and insect infestations can be deal
killers too, if severe.
Solution: Get into the structural members with a long, sharp,
sturdy, standard flat-tip screwdriver and attempt to penetrate
structural components that are made of wood. You won’t hurt anything
if there are no underlying deficiencies. However, if someone has
freshly painted over or patched it, that screwdriver is one heck of
a lie detector! Use it.
Now, I’m not saying people would do that. It may just be the
termites have eaten everything but the exterior coating of the wood
to conceal their activity whatever the case probe.
There are also tile roofs, metal roofs, cedar shake roofs,
hot-rolled roofing, tar and gravel roofs and always a few new
high-tech roof coatings. I feel my main concern is whether the
decking or the roof support structure has been undermined by water,
insects, rodents, poor materials, poor design or craftsmanship, a
lack of fasteners, strapping, etc.
Shingles and coatings can be replaced. Just know what is
underneath. That’s my criteria. Negotiate lower for needed
replacement of roof coverings if you can. I dwell on roofs because
it protects everything else!
Next on the list of deal killers is the foundation. The same
thing applies to the foundation. I will start by standing back from
it and looking at it from a distance. Does this place look like the
Leaning Tower of Pisa? Or are the seams coming apart? Do the windows
and doors look square? Are porches, stairs and additions on firm
ground as well?
Block homes can tell you very quickly if they are stressed out
just by the appearance of the mortar joints. Those giant unsettling
cracks can and do tell a story. This does happen and mortar cracks
maybe 10-years old. You need to investigate further.
Once again, water is a sign of trouble with foundations because
it leads to erosion, rot, mold and mildew. It washes out foundation
materials and slabs will crack. It rots sill plates and your walls
are no longer firmly attached to a base.
If you have a crawl space, it’s time to get your coveralls on and
get in there. Now, let’s use our heads here and I mean this! Before
you enter a dark, supposedly uninhabited, infrequently entered, dark
and restrictive to movement area, assess the situation. Ask someone
who has knowledge of the dwelling if there has been any animal
activity that they know of. You may also encounter bees, wasps,
ants, spiders, snakes, slugs, mosquitoes, rats, mice and a host of
other inhabitants. Beware an d be prepared. It’s truly another world
in some cases.
If you don’t want to do it, hire a professional and I do mean a
pro, not some Joe who says he is one. For goodness sake, use a
licensed professional home inspector to protect yourself in all
areas if you’re just not sure!
OK, you’re a trooper and you’re going in. Good for you, Rambo!
You’ll make it in this business because it takes faith, guts and
determination. By getting into this type of situation, you’ll learn
a lot more about every part of the homes you inspect.
You should have a strong flashlight, your trusty screwdriver,
maybe some insect repellent and a safety observer standing at the
access entry to give you piece of mind. Now you can go to the
perimeter walls and inspect where the walls meet the foundation.
Look for rot, misalignment, cracks, separations, water damage or any
other condition that doesn’t appear normal.
While you’re down there, look at the other foundational supports,
you will see pier blocks and posts, other concrete support pillars
and walls, beams, joists and cross bracing, and the underside of
sub-flooring. Check this stuff’s condition. Does it look original?
Is it structurally sound? Or are there some discrepancies that need
further investigation? Take a good look and smell!
Don’t leave yet. You also will want to look at all that plumbing
and electrical that is there as well. Scan the perimeter. Do you see
any sunlight coming in from where it shouldn’t be? That might be a
hole that needs repair. This is common sense land, not computer a
chip lab. You can inspect for general condition. Simply follow
everything to its logical end, looking mainly at the condition of
the different components.
OK, you’ve made mental and physical notes. Now dust yourself off
and go inside the house if everything has checked out so far. So the
roof and foundation have passed your keen eye. Let’s look at the
rest of the house with respect to its structural integrity. More
than half of your structural integrity check at this point is
already complete as the roof and foundation are two of the most
important components and those have been done. Now you are left with
the interior spaces of the structure.
Here’s what I do once inside. I stand at the front door with a
checklist in hand (www.inspectamerica.com) and I begin to scan the
walls, ceiling and floors. I’m looking for water stains on all three
surfaces, as well as patches that were used to repair or conceal
damage. I go through every room and look for signs of damage or
concealment.
Any flat floor is a good candidate for my scientific marble test.
I’ll drop my marble; if it rolls to a corner, that floor ain’t
level, Buckwheat. That’s a simple test but I do want to know that
the under-layer or sub-flooring is sound and firmly attached to all
those joists, and beams and trimmers and blah, blah, blah.
Soft spongy floors are of concern, creaky floors are annoying and
rotten floors are another story. So once again, I’m looking at the
structural support of the floors. I don’t care that the cheap,
yellowed vinyl is coming up at the seams. I don’t care that the
carpet is matted down or thread bare, and I don’t mind if the finish
is worn off of hardwood floors or tiles are loose.
Floor coverings fall under the label of cosmetics. That’s such a
pretty word and that’s what you want to concentrate on:
cosmetics...more on that in a moment.
So the floors pass my test for sub-flooring and structural
integrity is great. Now I can check that the walls are square
because they are attached to that floor, and then I can check that
the doors all operate properly and are square too.
How much more can there be than that, Dan? Well, let me tell you
a few things that can bite you here. Let’s say the structure overall
is good. By that, I mean you have a solid roof, a solid foundation
and sturdy floors and walls.
What is behind those walls? The things that bite you aren’t
usually seen until you get bit. One particular painful bite is
finding out your wiring is not grounded or that the circuits are not
properly protected. You’re looking for three-pronged outlets and
modern plastic-encased wiring made of copper, not aluminum. You want
circuit breakers, not fuses. What you really need here is a licensed
electrician to do this more in-depth and professionally licensed
review of the system.
I have seen more than one Joe Homeowner rehab go up in flames
because of a lack of respect for electricity. Licensed electricians
bring you up to code and protect your investment. Find a good one
and make it a point to shower him or her with praise, attention and
money well spent.
They will give you free estimates, so use them as a preliminary
inspector with you. If you decide to buy it, use them to do the work
that needs to be done.
Plumbers are a breed apart. You would think they use gold for
soldering your pipes with the prices they charge. My grandfather was
a plumber and I was on the truck with him at nine years old. A
plumber may or may not give you a free estimate. With a little
digging, it can be done. Just give them the work if indeed you do
buy the house.
With plumbers, the only time you’re going to need one is if you
are doing major system work or the once every ten year hot water
heater job. Also the occasional clogged main sewer line to the
street.
In today’s P.V.C. plastic plumbing kits world, you can hire just
about any good all-around handyman to get the job done. If you have
to tear through a wall to get at plumbing, building code
inspector-man will say, “Get a licensed plumber.”
Heating and cooling: the air conditioning system, if the house
you’re inspecting doesn’t have adequate heating and cooling, that
can become expensive. Let’s say you have a flat roof home in a hot
climate with window unit air-conditioners, and you intend on
bringing this house up to what a modern day home dweller expects.
You may have a problem. Where would you put new ductwork if you
don’t have attic space to house and route central heat and air? Once
again, call in a pro if you need some advice. They do give free
estimates!
Here’s a point for you to follow up on: the plumbing, heating and
air-conditioning guys all drive service trucks. Be on the lookout
for those trucks if they are your neighbors; go say “Hello” and
introduce yourself.
Regardless, I have always done this and what I am saying is this:
these guys most always work on the side and that means half price.
You may have to pull a permit as a homeowner but the savings is
substantial. Develop a network of these blue-collar geniuses. They
are the guys who will transform your investment fast!
So now you have a solid house. By that I mean, plumbing,
electrical, heating and air-conditioning, roof, foundation and
overall good structural integrity.
So what’s left to do? Call in your army of carpenter ants, from
painters to carpenters and flooring installers, yard maintenance and
tree trimmers, and handymen of all sorts.
This is the whirlwind tour. Let the demolition guy in first.
Order a dumpster for the next ten days. Order demolition man to
throw out everything including the kitchen sink. What I am out to do
at this point is to clear the decks.
A blank canvass is created for the painters to perform the
transformation. They come in at this point and patch and paint. Let
them blast the place with their airless paint-spraying arsenal
inside and out. Give them 3 days and you have just added a huge
improvement to your investment. This is the biggest
dollar-for-dollar return you can make.
One cautionary note here: Make absolutely sure that quality paint
is used. When it comes to painting, it’s the labor that kills you,
not the material. I insist on Sherwin Williams Super Paint. It is a
miracle formula that I am convinced could cover up bullet holes
without any patching compound and it lasts forever. It’s worth every
penny; insist on it!
So my idea of finding the ideal fixer upper is to find those
where the structure and systems are fine but it still needs
demolition man and the paint brigade. Everything up to this point
has been inspection and appraisal of the situation. Once I’m
satisfied that it is a cosmetic rehab and not the expensive money
pit, I send in my cosmetologists.
I wouldn’t call these guys that to their face but these are
normally men adding residential make-up to the bricks and mortar.
Once the painters leave, the flooring guys are right behind them,
laying tile and carpet. These guys are out in 2-3 days and my
cabinet and handyman plumber are attacking.
Light fixtures, vanities, toilets, sinks, doors, switch plates
and outlet covers…wham, ten days are up and this house is either
held out for rent, lease-optioned or sold for a whole heck of a lot
more than the ten grand I put into it, if that much.
You must be somewhat of an appraiser and deal finder. It takes
time to recruit your cosmetologists, but you will run across them in
your travels. Friends and family usually can provide you with some
serious leads. Start networking and talking to tradesmen. Get their
numbers and schedule them to descend upon your ugly duckling at
certain times and watch the transformation begin.
It took me years to learn these tricks. I did it all myself for
years and it always took three months when I did it myself. The sad
part is that I thought I was saving money that way.
Can you see how much I actually lost? Here is a quick example. I
bought a house for $55,000. Its deficiencies were purely cosmetic. I
used other people to do all the work and I pitched in to keep them
organized. Ten days later, it was done. I spent a total of $5,000 on
materials and labor and it appraised at $90,000 in 10 days!
That’s $30,000 in 10 days, not 3 months. Now marketing time would
take 45 days but I know how to do that too, and I will also show you
how you can do it too.
There is no doubt about it. This can be done and you can do it.
In all honesty, it may take you 30 days to achieve a completed
house. That’s may be 3 times what it took me but I am experienced.
Here’s a pretty neat way I figured out how to find good
cosmetologists (tradesmen). If I know relatively no one in the area,
I will ask a local appraiser to suggest who he would use if he were
me.
This is an intelligent way to ask that question. I ask it in this
form: “If you were me, who would you use?” Now that triggers a
self-preservation mechanism in their brain and they give me
excellent people, who are very good at what they do! Try it; it
works.
I went to appraisal school and learned a lot. Believe me,
appraisers are underrated and treated poorly. They truly are experts
at discerning quality and value. They know whom does quality work.
Make friends with a competent appraiser and the lenders that accept
their appraisals. Hint: You’ll get very fair evaluations and their
lender approves them.
Marketing, hunting, finding and capturing the “ripe for rehab
houses” is another book entirely. However, don’t lose faith because
I have written that book for you as well. Here is an excerpt from my
other book. It is called Magic Bullets In Real Estate.
There are 4 phases, or lifecycles, to real estate and here is how
it often goes.
Phase 1 You will see new construction, bright shiny homes popping
up, landscaping contests, baby strollers and tricycles in the
neighborhood. This is probably going on in the suburbs of the city,
as new growth tends to radiate out at a pace of one mile per year
from growing and prosperous cities.
Phase 2 The same neighborhood now 10-15 years later has aged a
bit and now you see basketball hoops and 2-wheel bikes, as the kids
are older and want more mobility.
Phase 3 The kids are grown and gone with families of their own
and now the parents are riding their own 3-wheel bicycles, trikes to
the hip grannies. Here in Phase 3, you’re looking at 25-35 year old
homes, where some people are passing away. Others are just hanging
in and some are moving in with the kids or going to an A.L.F.
(Assisted Living Facility). No doubt, you have outdated homes,
deferred maintenance and some repairs to be made. Here is the beauty
of this whole thing. These are my cosmetology candidates. Here’s
why! The formally elder owners lived there and they needed
everything to work. They didn’t update it. They just fixed things
that needed repair in order to maintain a level of comfort. They had
pest control and the Sears man come annually and piddled around. So
things were kind of looked after in that manner. Buy here!
Phase 4 Revitalization – That’s what happens as a result of you
buying your ripe- for-rehab fixer-upper in Phase 3 neighborhoods.
Odds are, you will rent it out, lease-option it or sell it to a
young family when it does sell, and guess what? Yep, out come the
tricycles and baby strollers and it starts all over again.
Tricycles
Bicycles
3-wheel bikes (buy here!)
Revitalization
Determine what cycle different neighborhoods are in! Follow cycle
#3.
Isn’t that a beautiful story; isn’t that the truth? Think about
your own parents and your own childhood. Now I also want you to
think about that brand new young family that is counting on you to
treat them fairly and give them a trouble-free home when they buy or
rent from you.
The harder and smarter you work, the better quality and value you
can provide to others. Don’t rip them off. Don’t take advantage,
don’t scrimp and for Pete’s sake, do your best to do your level
best. You need education and help from others to achieve these
heights of excellence. Visit us starting July 2004 at
www.magicbullets.com
About The Author
Dan Auito is a dual-licensed real estate agent and appraisal assistant.
Dan is a 20-year veteran of the United States Coast Guard. He
has acquired over 1.3 million in real estate assets in 14 years
while also founding a non-profit drug prevention corporation, a
real estate consulting group and is the author of “Magic Bullets
in Real Estate.” This 300-page power-packed book (due out in
early July 2004) comes with a website that further supports its
readers. Dan lives with his wife Kimberly and their two
children, Brandon and Briana, on the emerald isle of Kodiak
Island, Alaska. Dan may be reached at
magicbullets@alaska.com
or by visiting
www.magicbullets.com. Call 1 907 481-6300 or write 1619
Three Sisters Way Kodiak AK 99615 |
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